Category: Outdoor

Do not forget when planning your commercial premises, the importance of the outdoor signage or canopy, which is usually your first contact with the client. In this article, some recommendations to make the most of it.

The commercial poster allows, in a simple way, the main poster of your business must attract the attention of potential customers, whether they are walking or driving, and direct, make known the existence of your company and inform about products and services. You market. It is a reminder of your brand and a good permanent graphic advertising tool, which allows you to attract potential customers.

Here at Morning Star Press we’re proud of helping Australian businesses have excellent posters printed with vivid colours that call the attention of customers and new-comers while providing a professional and reliable image.

What aspects should you take into account to make the most of it?

Its main purpose: communication. You need to be clear about “what you want to communicate”. The idea is to attract the attention of potential customers, whether they are walking or driving. By looking at it quickly they should be able to get the short message: the name of your business? A slogan? The products you sell? Your differential aspect?

1. Simplicity, to be recorded in memory. The less information you have, the easier it will be to get your message, and also remember it. Perhaps it only reaches with the logo of the company, and if necessary, the activity can also be added. It is not convenient to fill it with the brands of the products that are marketed: that implies an information overload, imperceptible in a few seconds.
2. Balance and harmony of the parts. It is essential to show coherence between the text, the image and the blank spaces. The arrangement of the different elements must be harmonious: keep in mind that the reading is done from left to right and from top to bottom.
3. Location and shape: look around you. When deciding where to place it, it is important to guarantee its visibility. Think that nothing obstructs the poster once placed, such as other posters. The sense of movement is also important. Is the street one-handed? Can you see it from the corner? Are there traffic lights to stop passersby? Is it at the level of the view of who passes? Not confused with neighboring premises? Also think about what type of signage is more appropriate given the location: front, overhang so they can be seen from other streets, canopy or vertical on the sidewalk.
4. Size: measuring distances. The size of the poster must be directly proportional to the distance that separates it from the clients. If the idea is to be seen by the moving vehicles, it should be larger than if the focus is on pedestrians walking on the sidewalk. It might even be wise to make two different posters.
5. Colors and contrasts. Colors influence to attract attention, we chose bright colors, but few … Like images, an excess only produces confusion. If there are several, they must be consistent with each other. Also, check that the chosen colors contrast with the background.
6. Simple typefaces. The choice of typeface to use should be based on readability or visibility. They must be clear, especially if the distances are important and the time the pedestrian or driver has to observe is minimal.
7. Day and night? Even if your business does not work at night, it is good to make the most of the visibility to make yourself known. The lighting options are various, depending on preferences, the area or the activity: lighting from inside or from behind or with external lights that point to the front of the sign.
8. It is authorized? Depending on the area where your business premises are enabled, the regulations or legal requirements to be able to place outdoor signage may vary (tax categories, size restrictions), but in all cases you will need a municipal authorization to avoid problems.
9. Think your message very well. What, how, why and why: it is essential to answer these questions before making your poster. So beforehand, always think about what message you want to convey and its primary purpose.
10. Your target audience is everything. Another essential: to know who you are addressing. It is not the same to make a poster to capture the attention of a child than an adult; of a university student, than of a high executive. All audiences can have something in common, but the language and the way to capture their interest changes.
11. Your company is many things, you have a lot of information to give, but don’t give it all at once: they won’t read you. Simplify your message as much as possible so that it arrives as directly as possible. People of modern life do not have much time;)
12. Take care of typography. The typography of an advertisement must first of all be legible. This also implies proper size and correct use of upper and lower case letters. Extreme care must be taken in advertisements that are based solely on word games, since the form of the letter must also be in accordance with the sensations that one wishes to convey. Below are some examples of the importance of using typography and good text-only ads.

Extra!

Configure text and image properly. Centered image, text just below: this composition is usually used when what is intended is a mere presentation of the product. When we do not use the centered alignment, the product or the protagonist of the image is also usually placed on the left and the text more to the right so that the visual weight is balanced, since with few exceptions, on the contrary, it tends to appear unbalanced.

When you want to attract attention with the image, it takes up most of the space and the text is placed in a much smaller size in one of the corners of the poster.

Contact us today for more information and make a top poster with the help of true professionals with a lot of time offering excellent services to Australian businesses.

The barrels, barrels, casks or wine vats are a handmade jewel. The coopers make them by hand through a painstaking process, which requires a lot of experience.

The barrel is one of the decisive factors in the taste of the wine. It is where it rests before being bottled, where it oxygenates, softens and acquires the notes of wood and roast, which it absorbs from the barrel. The most precious wood for making wine barrels is French oak, from which most of the barrels are imported and one of the reasons why the coopers are progressively disappearing.

Each barrel can reach up to 40 years in the function of sedimenting the wines, but only between 6 and 12 years to oxygenate them. From wanting to give another life to these beautiful pieces of hardwood came the idea of ​​making furniture with wine barrels.

Wine Barrels can easily help you give this old western feeling to any area of the house and you can rent them or buy them today. Contact us for more information. Along with our top wine barrels for decoration you can also include many other materials that help you recreate a western style from cowboy movies for weddings or any type of event.

So, pay attention, we give you 10 ideas to decorate your house with recycled wine barrels.

1. From wine barrel to table

It is the most common utility for a recycled wine barrel, since the surface of its lid is large enough to make the barrel a high table to enjoy a standing snack. With several wine barrels and a wooden plank on top you can organise a whole banquet in the garden of your house. What do you want to celebrate?

2. From wine barrel to ice bucket

With a barrel cut in half and a simple foot to raise it from the ground we can create an original ice bucket to keep drinks cool at our big celebrations. Isn’t it original?

3. From wine barrel to planter

With the remaining half of the barrel, after having made the bucket, we can easily invent a planter to put bright flowers at the entrance of the house. It will bring a rustic touch to the decoration.

4. From wine barrel to dog bed

If you are one of those who pamper your pets more than yourself, you will love this idea. With half a large barrel, as there are different sizes, you can make a bed for your pet. You only need a saw to cut the shape, sandpaper to polish the finishes and a coat of varnish if you want to protect the wood.

5. From wine barrel to baby crib

If you can make a bed for your dog, why not make a baby crib? It is very simple and really original. You will have to sand to renew the wood on the inside of the barrel and varnish it to protect and insulate the wood. Once this is done, with good braided ropes and good rivets, you will have, in addition to a crib, a rocker for your baby.

6. From a wine barrel to a stool

If you are a handyman, you know that from a wine barrel you can even make a stool like this. You dare?

7. From wine barrel to decorative lamp

We love this particular idea, what an interesting way to add charm to the night! Trace the drawing with the shape you want on the wood and with a drill go piercing it as if it were a broken line. Put a good light bulb inside and … Voilà! magic was done.

8. From a wine barrel to a side table

Cutting the barrel vertically in half will give you a longer table. With a wooden plank on top, you will have a perfect side table for your living room.

If you prefer to cut it horizontally, you will get a smaller table, ideal to place next to the sofa or in the chill out of your garden.

9. From wine barrel to bathroom sink

This option is for experts or for enthusiasts without fear of challenges. If you do, you will tell us!

10. From wine barrel to bar cabinet

This bar cabinet made from a barrel, is a creative way to display those bottles you keep for space occasions.

2 extra ideas to decorate with wooden barrels

Furniture and accessories for the world of hospitality are a clear support for the reflection and image of the business and that in wooden chairs and tables furniture for hospitality is something that we have in mind. That is why in this blog, apart from talking about our furniture for hotels, we are also going to give you guidelines on how to use it.

In today’s post on Wooden chairs and tables for hospitality furniture we are going to give you 3 ideas to decorate your premises with wooden barrels.

1. Use the wooden barrel as a table. Place the wooden barrel in the center of the premises with four banquettes around and achieved an atmosphere of conversation with friends, you will get your client to make a good experience of the stay in your bar, in addition to the differentiating touch at the interior level that the barrel of wood will give. A wine and cheese are best eaten on top of a wooden barrel, we tell you in Wooden chairs and tables, furniture for the hospitality industry.
2. Use the wooden barrel as an easel. Place two wooden barrels at a distance of three / four meters and put a solid wooden board on top, you will get an ideal table / bench for outdoor catering, open bars, outdoor weddings in the afternoon in summer … if you are a hotelier that one of the axes of his company is the catering service, celebration of events, weddings, communions… We advise you from wooden chairs and tables furniture for hospitality, to get hold of a few wooden barrels and get this presentation as beautiful like the one we show you in the following image, economic, trend and super beautiful.

Wine Barrels can easily help you give this old western feeling or modern decoration ideas for any area of the house and you can rent them or buy them today. Along with our top wine barrels for decoration you can also include many other materials that help you recreate a western style from cowboy movies.

If you are looking for the best cricket bats at the best price, you have come to the right place. To know which bat is the best you can buy, you must take into account some aspects, such as the type of wood and its age, as well as the weight of the bat, among others.

When you choose a cricket bat, you may have a problem. Almost all of them resemble each other and have the same characteristics and prices. When you buy or choose one to play, you should keep in mind some simple parameters that will make your job easier and help you hit fours and sixes.

Clearance Cricket Store is a Melbourne based online store where you can get everything you need to start practicing cricket! Visit our store!

What are the best cricket bats?

Generally, the best bats tend to be the most expensive, that is why it is necessary to be clear for what you want to buy a bat. If you are a player with some experience, it is normal that you want to buy the best possible bat. However, there are many details that will make a difference, such as the type of wood, weight, among others.

Tips for buying a cricket bat

When choosing the best cricket bats, many questions arise. Most are very similar aesthetically and can have very similar characteristics. If you decide to practice cricket and want to buy a good cricket bat or shovel, you must take into account some basic instructions that will help you make your purchase the right one.

To make it easier for you to understand everything you have to consider when buying your cricket shovel, we have divided the main points to consider when buying your cricket bat into sections.

1. Your needs

Before buying a cricket bat, you should consider your needs. For example if you are going to play with rubber balls, a tennis bat is perfect. If you want to practice with leather or polystyrene balls, you should buy thinner bats.

2. Bat size

Before making the purchase, you must take into account the different sizes that are on the market. Keep in mind that cricket bats usually have different sizes depending on the age of the players. For ages between 10 and 12 years, the indicated size is 4. However, if the players are older, the size must be 5 or 6.

3. Bat brand

It is always preferable to choose a brand with a reputation since otherwise the quality would be much lower and in a short time we will have to buy another bat. The good news is that today there is a wide variety of manufacturers and established brands that offer very good quality products, such as SG, Kookaburra, Gray Nicolls, etc. It is also true that prices vary depending on each brand.

4. Wood types

This point is essential, you have to buy a cricket bat with a specific type of wood. Basically, in the world of cricket, willow wood is used, however, there are two types within this category. The English willow and the Kashmir willow. Which is better? Undoubtedly, English willow bats are the most famous in the world and also the most expensive, although the benefits they offer are much better than the bats made with Kashmir wood. This type of wood offers greater hitting power and therefore the ball will go a further distance. It all depends on your level, if you are starting the correct choice would be to buy a cashmere willow bat and if instead you already have a higher level, the recommendation would be to buy an English willow cricket shovel.

5. Bat weight

In order to choose the best possible cricket bats, the weight of the bat must be considered. The rule is the lighter the bat the better. Depending on the manufacturer and the wood used, the weight of the bat may vary. Bats made from English willow wood are usually lighter than those made from Kashmir wood. Remember to check the weight of the bat before buying it. If you see that it is too heavy, discard it.

6. Wood age

How to know the age of the wood? The correct way to find out is by looking at the grains. These elements are the lines represented on the front of the cricket bat that indicate the age of the wood used to manufacture it. The greater the number of grains, the greater the age of the wood and, therefore, the better the yield the bat will give. It is considered that from 6 “grains” the quality of the bat is acceptable to play at a certain level. The scale goes up to 10, being the best quality, grade A.

Where to buy the best cricket bats

Because cricket is still a minority sport in the world, it is sometimes difficult to find the necessary material to practice it. Luckily, we live in a globalised world where you can find almost everything on the Internet. The products recommended on this website are second to none in terms of quality.

In the early days of the sport, bats were more like current hockey sticks (in fact, they are supposed to have a common origin: shepherds’ sticks). The oldest surviving bat dates from 1729 and at first glance, it looks like a hockey stick. Then, the shape became more similar to the current one: a handle connected to a flat shovel on one side (with which the ball is hit) and curved on the other.

The cricket bat is usually made of white or weeping willow wood and varnished with flax oil. Willow wood has the advantage that it is light but at the same time very resistant to impacts like those of a cricket ball, and it is difficult to chip. The handle, meanwhile, is usually lined with rubber, to improve grip.

Under sports law, the bat must not be more than 965 mm, or more than 108 mm wide (and 67 mm or less thick). Its weight ranges between 1.2 and 1.4 kilograms. However, there are bats of different sizes for children. In 1979 an attempt was made to introduce the aluminum bat, but the authorities prohibited it and it can only be made of wood.

Modern bats are usually made almost all in Pakistan and India, although there are still artisan manufacturers in England, Australia or New Zealand. Kashmir, Punjab, Gujarat or Rajasthan are some of the regions with a long tradition of making cricket bats.

Bear in mind that Clearance Cricket Store is a Melbourne based online store where you can get everything you need to start practicing cricket! Visit our store and start trying it today!

“Is this plant dead or can it sprout again?” This is an unfortunately too common question. We are often consulted for trees that have not yet sprouted or for battered plants that have lacked water, accused the cold or suffered some setback. Obviously, we can’t offer the answer, we don’t have the plant in front of me, but we are going to try to help make something clear.

Protect the health of nearby trees and vegetation with our superior mulching services in Perth. Here at Perth Tree Services we’ll be happy to assist you and help you have a beautiful garden.

1. Discard that it is deciduous

We must start with the most obvious: there are many species – deciduous trees are a clear example of this – that emerge from their leaves with the first cold. The reason is very consistent and is justified as an adaptation mechanism. During the winter the energy they would spend on maintaining their leaves would not be compensated for that obtained in the absorption of nutrients. So, despite having to replace them later, they choose to get rid of them.

In this sense, we have very present deciduous trees: species such as oak, beech or linden. But other non-arboreal ones, such as rose bushes or virgin vines, would also fall into the same category. It should not surprise us that they lose the leaves in autumn and recover them later when spring arrives. It is clear that this should be the case and therefore before tearing it out of the pot, we must ensure that the plant is not deciduous.

2. Make sure you do not lack irrigation

But … what if it is in the middle of summer when they lose the leaves? This is more common than you imagine and does not mean that the plant is sick, only that it has been stressed by heat and lack of water. It is very common in newly planted trees or shrubs to which the first summer surprises even in the period of adaptation.

When the heat is extreme and they lose more liquid than they manage to absorb, they use the same strategy as when autumn arrives and blow their leaves at once. It would be convenient then a little help (it is good to increase the irrigation in these cases), always with moderation, of course. And without going over; You already know that if the soil is wet there will still be water available and it is not convenient to water.

On other occasions there is a previous symptomatology: the leaves languish before they fall, as if giving clues to what happens to them. It is possible to recover the plant if you attend it on time. While in a pot, you can immerse it in a bowl of water for a few minutes. Then let it drain well. The “transport” substrate with which they come from the nursery should be replaced as soon as possible. The peat after being dry hardens and hardly retains water.

3. Help … too much water!

Be careful, the straight and deciduous leaves can also be an indication of excess moisture in the soil. If the roots lack air, unable to breathe they die, showing signs very similar in the plant to those of water shortage.

Too much water is worse than its lack.

More plants die from excess irrigation than by default. This is the reality! Make sure the problem is the moisture deficit and not vice versa, before making it even worse. It is always easier to recover a plant by hydrating it, than if its roots are already rotten.

Have you gone through irrigation? Maybe you can still remedy it. On the other hand, to reduce the risk of incidents it is a good idea to use quality substrates, preferably loose. You will facilitate drainage and consequently aeration of the roots.

Finally, the clogged hole in the pots is another major cause of “root asphyxiation.” Be sure to check that everything is correct. Do not fail on such an important issue. Here are more tips on watering your plants.

4. Is your plant sensitive to cold?

Too cold can cause your magnificent plant to end up being a sad corpse. We already know how deciduous species react. But what happens when it is a tropical plant, and in principle perennial, the one that “gets peeled”? In many occasions, endemic plants of warm places manage to live without problems in less favorable climates (provided that the frosts are anecdotal, of course).

The case of Bougainvillea is a clear example. Throughout the Mediterranean he manages to spend the perfect winter and with its whole leaves. Near the waterfront, yes. Only a few kilometers away, outside the beneficial influence of the sea, will it be cold enough to force her to lost.

Prune visible parts

Get a cutting utensil. You will need something that can pass through the roots and stems of small leaves, such as a kitchen knife. You can also use scissors, but if you leave a plant for a while and it grows a lot, you may need special pruning shears to cut it.

Sterilise kitchen knives before using them on the floor. To do this, rub alcohol on the leaf and let it dry.

Prune damaged leaves

Start with the rotten leaves. If necessary, carefully move the branches and leaves to find all the leaves that are dry, brown or dead. You can also remove unhealthy leaves that are very discolored. Use the knife or scissors to cut them by the stem.

• Do it carefully so you don’t spoil healthy leaves by accident.
• Pests or diseases in these leaves can infect the plant, so it is necessary to remove them.
• The leaves dry due to insufficient light, as well as too little or too much water.

Cut the excess outer leaves

Use a knife or pruning shears to remove enough healthy leaves to get the plant to fit in the pot. Place the cutting tool at the base of the stem and make a clean cut. These leaves are the oldest and contain most of the aloe vera gel.

The gel has many medicinal purposes. If you want to use these leaves, cut the spiny edges and store the leaves in the refrigerator until you want to extract the gel.

Avoid cutting the leaves closest to the main stem of the plant. These leaves are young and are necessary to replace old leaves.

Protect the health of nearby trees and vegetation with our superior mulching services in Perth. Here at Perth Tree Services we’ll be happy to assist you.

Thanks to the visionary policies of our ancestors, we have the iconic imprint of a city like Buenos Aires, dressed in majestic and unique trees, and among them, legendary old trees. Today we have to take care of their legacy with cultural sensitivity, respect and the technical knowledge they deserve.

The trees of the city, both in private gardens and in public spaces and the road, make up the “urban forest”. Although we all recognize the importance from the cultural and landscape point of view of a green city, it is necessary to highlight its environmental role, essential to mitigate the effects of climate change.

Trees capture carbon dioxide and lower the city’s air temperature, contribute – with their foliage and root systems – to cushion the effects of torrential rains, reduce soil erosion and reduce noise pollution. The trees form a biological corridor that contributes to counteract the decline in biodiversity.

And while it is true that trees have multiple services and benefits, they can also produce conflicts, mainly when the species was not correctly chosen for a given site or when it was poorly managed. If we talk about old trees, the threats can be more serious. From the point of view of risk related to trees, as in most things, zero risk does not exist. Even the safest tree can fail, entirely or partially, in very abnormal weather conditions.

Pruning is, within the set of management practices that can avoid hazards, one of the most important. Pruning accompanies the correct growth and the best development of the tree and is essential for the evolution of the tree and its adaptation to the urban environment. When pruning old trees, a fundamental requirement must be taken into account:

• Clearly determine what or what the pruning objectives are. Without lawful objectives you can’t talk about pruning.
• Clearly determine what type of pruning will meet these objectives. Have trained machinery, technicians and operators.
• Perform periodic removal of dry branches.

Do not prune more than 25% of the total volume of the green tree canopy per intervention, until the specimen recovers its reserves. By removing wood, there is less capacity to store energy and there is loss of structural integrity. The pruning objective must not necessarily be met in an intervention.

Protect the health of nearby trees and vegetation with our superior mulching services in Perth. Here at Perth Tree Services we’ll be happy to assist you.

According to internationally recognised concepts in arboriculture, and according to the species, the maximum diameter of branches to be pruned must be between 4 and 10 cm. The elimination of branches of greater diameter is considered an exception and will generate a decrease in the life of the specimen due to the generation of wounds that will result in rot, entry of xylophagous insects, etc.

When assessing safety and lighting problems, it is essential to avoid the eventual irreversible damage or deterioration of the tree due to excessive pruning.

Evaluate the time of pruning according to the physiological and phenological state of each species. Postpone pruning in case of droughts, floods and high temperatures.

In the “urban forest”, the specimens form alignments, galleries, vaults, working as a functional group. If they are extracted or pruned excessively, or the plot is opened, the remaining trees will suffer the onslaught of winds from which they were protected, for which they have not generated biomechanical resistance.

If old trees located on public roads do not receive specific care, they can cause damage. If old trees located on public roads do not receive specific care, they can cause damage.

To keep in mind: the consequences of pruning

• By eliminating foliage there is lower production of carbohydrates, that is, less photosynthesis.
• After injuring living tissues, the consumption of carbohydrates increases to protect wounds and emit new outbreaks.
• By removing wood, there is less capacity to store energy and also loss of structural integrity.

Tips to optimise your tree pruning

Pruning involves totally or partially eliminating dry, dead or poorly oriented branches. A good pruning improves and prevents the health of the tree and also of people and birds that share their surroundings. The improper use of pruning can produce exaggerated growths, since the tree spends a lot of energy growing new branches on the edges of the stumps. To do it the right way, keep in mind that:

-The pruning of only one side of the tree leaves it unbalanced and in danger of falling during storms or wind.

-In pruning structure reduction, you should avoid cutting branches larger than 10 centimeters in diameter.

-In young trees, thinning is a form of pruning where branches are removed from the junction with the trunk, or secondary branches of a main branch. This will help reduce the amount of new offspring and drive tree growth.

Pruning should be done when the tree is in a vegetative period and the sap barely circulates. Poorly made or misplaced cuts cause fungal infections that can cause the tree to rot.

On the other hand, leaving a branch next to the cut allows the sap not to abruptly interrupt its ascending path. That way, rotting and excessive emergency outbreaks are avoided,

How is a proper cut made?

-Before anything, keep in mind that every cut involves a wound. In order for the tree to begin to heal, the cuts must be clean, without tears. For that it is necessary to use sharp tools and make the cut in the right place.

-The cut must be made neither too close to the trunk nor too far away. Precisely at the point of union with the mother branch, or at the intersection of two branches, where a “y” is formed. Try not to make them flush with the trunk.

-The bevel cut is much more suitable so that the wound does not retain moisture. Moisture favors rot and fungal attack. In addition, the neck (area of ​​the base of the branch) must be respected when making the cut, since there they concentrate the cells that will help heal the wound.

-In branches of a large diameter, so that a tear of the bark does not occur, it must be cut in two steps. First a notch is made, it is cut higher and finally, the rest is removed by holding it.

– The risk of rot increases when the cuts exceed 5 cm in diameter, so if you cannot avoid making a large cut should be smoothed and retouched until they are perfect.

Bear in mind that Perth Tree Service is a recognised business that provides specialised mulching services in Perth

How ugly the palm trees are when they are full of dry leaves, it gives a sense of abandonment, of non-maintenance, however when they are clean and green they are the queens of the gardens, the streets, the beaches and of all the places where they are.

The palm trees have a regulation system by which they generate new leaves in the upper part of their cup as the old leaves dry in the lower part of the glass.

In cold climates, these dry leaves covering the trunk of the palm tree are a good protection for the cold, but except in these exceptions, it is important to prune the palm trees to ensure that they remain beautiful, healthy and clean. In addition, with pruning we will avoid the risk of falling dry leaves at high altitude.

Here at Perth Tree Services we’ll be happy to assist you and help you have a beautiful garden.

When to prune a palm tree?

The optimum cutting time will be during the vegetative period, in spring, summer and autumn, never in winter.

In hot climates, it can be done at any time of the year. Keep in mind that we mainly talk about removing dry leaves. You should always avoid temperatures above 20ºC that can favour the attack of red weevil

Depending on the species and size of the palm we will prune them more or less frequently, to know we will only have to be attentive to the state and colour of the leaves and thus we will know when to cut them. If they are green and healthy it means they have chlorophyll and perform the photosynthetic function perfectly: they collect nutrients from the earth and convert them into carbohydrates. So, we will have to cut them when they start to yellow, it is not advisable to wait until the leaves are completely dry. Also, if any, we must remove the diseased leaves attacked by fungi, so we will prevent the spores from spreading to healthy leaves.

The fruit clusters are usually decorative so they will be cut or not according to taste, although it should be taken into account what:

– They consume energy from the plant, so if we cut them, the palm tree will grow a little more that year since all its energy (water and nutrients) will be concentrated in the leaves.

– Some species, such as “Syagrus Romanzoffiana” or vulgarly known as “Plum Coconut”, throws them to the ground, so in addition to posing a danger, it is annoying and dirty.

How to prune a palm tree?

If the palm trees are of low and medium height, we can prune ourselves with the appropriate tools so as not to damage them.

And remember that we should not eliminate the green leaves, since we will break the balance of the palm by weakening it, delaying its development and causing it to lose nutrients.

The pruning tools used for these palm trees are:

– Marcola or palm knife:

It is common among palm trees (palm trimmers). Only with this tool you can do all the pruning work: clean the trunk, cut leaves by the petiole, cut fruits and to make the finish of the balona.

 – Corvellot:

It is a tool similar to marcola.

For palm trees with high logs, the most sensible thing is to turn to professionals specialised in pruning palm trees. Good safety equipment is needed to climb the trunk, as well as good cutting tools. \

In addition to the tools already mentioned for smaller palm trees, here also, we may need if the specimen is large these others:

– Axe:

It is also used by many pruners to cut leaves and “pencas” (petiole base); then, the tuning of the ball must be done with the marcola or with the corvellot.

– Chainsaw:

There is a small hand and serves to cut the leaves into large specimens.

– Handsaw:

For the same as the chainsaw, to cut leaves by the petiole, very little is used today.

Before climbing the trunk of a palm tree, make sure it is stable enough. When going up, it should be hitting to check that there are no holes or rotten areas.

On the other hand, the ascent by the palm tree must be done so that the trunk is not damaged, since serious damage could be caused to the palm tree. There are different systems to climb the trunk of the palm tree, stirrups, “bicycle” or lifting platform.

Pruning is done by trimming the dried leaves flush with the trunk, starting from the lowest part of the crown and spiralling up.

After pruning the palm tree

Once the leaves have been cut, we will remove all the remains of the pruning and then we will fertilise the soil around the trunk with a specific product so that the palm tree grows stronger.

From here we advise you that if you like gardening, do not hesitate to prune small specimens following these recommendations, but if in your garden you have copies of considerable height, it is not worth it to buy all the tools and safety equipment, It is an expensive equipment and if you do not have experience you run the risk of falling, cutting and / or pricking yourself, realise that unless you are mounted on a platform, you are in an uncomfortable and insecure posture and with sharp tools.

Some inconvenients

The inconveniences in pruning palm trees are on our part when it comes to work. Palm trees have rapid growth and can reach great heights. At the moment we have to perform pruning, we need stairs or even climbing ropes. This makes it difficult for a normal user, like most of you, to have a garden with palm trees, to be able to successfully prune in tall palm trees, with the danger involved. In most cases, experts who do the work are hired, with a cost that has several palm trees can be high.

Protect the health of you trees and vegetation with our superior mulching services in Perth. Here at Perth Tree Services we’ll be happy to assist you.

Sometimes trees reach a point where they must be cut, especially if they are not drought-resistant trees. It can be a painful decision, but sometimes the trees that are very close to the houses, are very sick, have an incurable infestation or grow very tall and very close to the power lines. If any of these things happen, it is better to do the right thing and get rid of this tree. Despite having spent hours and hours making the tree is as it is now, it is almost dishonourable to let it suffer in unfavourable conditions.

Protect the health of nearby trees and vegetation with our superior mulching services in Perth. Here at Perth Tree Services we’ll be happy to assist you.

Techniques to remove trees

Once you have made the choice to remove the tree, you need to plan. We can start by counting the number of windows that we have seen broken and the cars that we have seen crushed by bad planning at the time of removing trees. Decide which way you want it to fall, and measure the way you should cut it so that it cannot hurt anything else. Once you have had the planned fall direction, you should go to the top of the tree and tie two long ropes in the part. Then anchor them to the opposite side of the one that wants the tree to fall. This will allow you to adjust the direction of the tree once it has gone down, just in case it starts to lean towards some place.

Now that you have taken all the necessary precautions, you can start cutting down. If you plan to use a manually operated saw or an axe, please think about how crazy it is. Cutting a tree by hand can take a lot of time, and you may never have the precision you could have with an electric saw. If you do not have one, do not consider doing it. Ask your neighbours and see if anyone has one that they can borrow. If that does not work, buy or rent one from your local home improvement store.

Before you begin cutting your tree, you should wear eye and face protection in the event that a splinter can fly towards you. We have a friend who went blind in the right eye while cutting a tree, so we hope none of my readers make the same mistake as him. When operating a power tool, always make sure you are using all the protection necessary for the exposed parts of your body.

When making the cut, you should not make a straight line. It is always better to cut in a “V” shape, because if you cut in a straight line, the tree can roll from one side to the other. If you cut in the form of a “V”, you can control the direction of fall. Occasionally the human error at the time of cutting can cause it to fall a little further than calculated, so ask for the help of some strong friends to be able to linearise the path of the fall. The whole process should not take more than an hour.

Getting rid of the trunk that is left on the ground can be a bit more difficult. It has several options; You can rent a log splitter that completely destroyed the entire visible section. Or you can spend countless hours digging and taking it out. The latter is better, but it takes a long time. If you have children to help you, this should not be a problem, as they like to dig and enjoy outdoor activities. This is the method that we know, and with which we managed to get the whole trunk in a week. Keep in mind that my trunk was about 30 centimetres in diameter, and digging probably will not work for much longer trunks.

5 steps to remove a tree from the root

No one can deny that trees are incredible pieces of art that nature gives us to appreciate and enjoy its presence. Not to mention having the chance that one of these copies embellishes our garden. However, sometimes it can happen that a tree gets sick due to an infestation not treated in time or that its height gets out of hand and can interfere with the electrical wiring. In those cases, badly that weighs us, it is necessary to get rid of it to avoid bigger problems in the future.

To not leave you alone in such a feat, wants to accompany you in this process by giving you the precise advice so that everything will come out successfully.

Step 1: Have everything calculated

The first thing that needs to be done first of all and after having decided that the tree will be removed, is to plan several considerations. You must be sure which direction you think it is convenient to fall to avoid crushing other objects due to a miscalculation.

That area of ​​fall must be free of traffic of vehicles, people or some type of construction. In addition, it is necessary to check the terrain of that area so that its surface does not present unevenness that can cause accidents.

Step 2: The natural inclination

As you can imagine, removing a tree is a task that cannot be done without appealing to a criterion of previous organisation or without adequate tools. Therefore, in addition to being aware of the previous step, it is necessary to take into account other variables.

Generally, trees have a tendency to lean toward the wind or in search of as much light as possible. The idea is that you clear that path so there are no obstacles.

Step 3: Cut in v

The next procedure that is very important in this process, is to go up to the tip of the tree and tie two long ropes that should be anchored on the opposite side of the fall to allow you to manage the direction correctly.

Then, you must make an electric saw because it is time to make a V-shaped cut that will help weaken the strength of the tree. Professionals call it undermined and must have a dimension proportional to a quarter of the total size of the piece.

Step 4: The final cut

Then, it is necessary to make another cut, but this time it is back and will help to release the pressure of the previous cut. Be careful not to coincide the two cuts because you will cause the tree to fall to the opposite direction of which you have planned.

Once the tree begins to fall you must move quickly from the road to avoid accidents or injuries. Also, you must alert others to your procedure on time.

Step 5: The trunk and roots

Each time we are closer to the end of this masterful task. When the tree has fallen, we should start to remove all the branches.

You should check how to get the trunk of the tree from its roots: there are different possibilities to carry out this procedure. Light a fire and let the trunk in the middle so that it is consumed with the help of a chemical.

The second option is to hire a company that is dedicated to drill the earth and extract the roots completely.

Perth Tree Service is a recognised business that provides specialised mulching services in Perth, we offer second to none services for commercial and residential spaces but we also focus in the urban built environment or the premises used by the agricultural sector. Call us now.

There are many rules not written in the live poker games. Ethics and courtesy are important in the game. For example, no disrespect to dealers is allowed.

Behave with the dealers as you want them to behave with you …

Do not rebuke the dealer for doing his job. If they make a mistake, help him, instead of putting them in the trap. And if that card on the river completes your aces poker but gives the opponent a royal straight, do not jump the table to grab him by the neck. They are doing their job and most of them do it quite well.

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Respect to be respected

The same thing happens with your table rivals. Do not preach to them for playing badly. Poker is a game with different people and different ways of playing. So, if a player misplays a hand, you will be acting worse if you start yelling at him.

Now, if it is you who are being disrespected, tell the dealer, supervisor or boss. Do not enter the fight. Remember that bad behaviour will not be tolerated at any time. Getting kicked out of the casino is not fun, especially when you did not start the discussion.

Take advantage of the rules

Unlike online poker, in live games there are many opportunities in which players rush the rules the most, in an unethical way, to gain advantage. An example may be hiding the highest value chips below the lowest ones. That way you do not know how much money the opponent has at the table. Another may be to hide the cards so that the rivals believe that they have no cards and act out of turn. These players usually rush the rules to get information from rivals.

All these tricks are being disregarded and rejected by most players.

It is your duty to be respectful and courteous at the tables. Make sure you know the code of conduct of the casino and follow it to the letter.

How to play online poker – A look at the rules of online poker

Online poker has some rules that are only used in online poker. It is possible to admonish rivals using chat. Or tell a friend the letters you have. But the moderators of the online room are continuously looking for those who do not comply with the laws. And, if you see someone breaking the rules, you should immediately inform the online room.

Do not talk more

Table ethics and courtesy apply both in online poker and live poker. Just because you cannot see your rival, and they cannot see you, does not give you the right to be disrespected.

Make sure that what you say in the chat is not frowned upon as:

• Do not make collusion – In multiplayer boats, do not tell opponents what you have or should be thrown, even if you do not know them.
• Do not insult – Keep unpleasant comments about the rivals’ family outside the chat room.
• Do not “talk” about the hand in progress – Similar to not making collusion. Do not tell other players that a player looks like he is bluffing, or that he looks like he has a good hand. Keep that information to yourself and use it when you are in a hand against them.

Statistics and software

Online poker is simply online. Thus, unlike live poker, software such as “Poker Tracker” and “Hold’em Manager” are allowed. They are not cheating is a way to control your statistics and improve in the game.

Act on time

To combat the disconnections, all the gambling halls have a clock. This system means that a player can not get up to open the door, forget that he is playing, and leave the whole table waiting for hours. If you do not act in the predetermined time, the cards are withdrawn.

You also have to control your Internet connection. If you disconnect, they give you additional time, but when this time is over, the cards are removed.

More tables, please

Most poker rooms allow players to open several tables at once. This is an important advantage of the online game over the live game. Players can be on as many tables as they can at once. But some rooms have a maximum limit.

One of the rules of etiquette is that when you are playing in several tables you do not make the rivals wait a lot. If you cannot handle the action and you are spending time continuously you need to lower the number of tables in play.

Get up, sit down, put the blind or wait?

In online tables, you can choose to sit and play immediately or get up and wait. Sit and play will cost you a blind. And it can be interesting when you get up and go back to the table knowing the rivals. However, this means that for the blind you have paid you do not receive a complete return.

If you look a little more money, you can wait until the blind arrives. With this you get to see a complete return of hands for the price of the blinds.

Beginning players make many mistakes in poker tournaments: play too loose, too tight, be very aggressive, not be aggressive enough, make the wrong size bets and many more.

Avoiding these mistakes is really important as this will help you improve your poker tournament results almost instantaneously.

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The barrel is the container where wines are traditionally aged, but what do we know about them? And the big question that everyone asks themselves: how long can they be useful?

Entering a breeding room full of wooden barrels is a sensory experience. Not only because of the particular smell of wine and wood that often floats in these places, but because of all the magic that surrounds them.

Who has not had the feeling of being in a special place and full of energy in front of the cellar of a cellar? Something magical and something hidden is happening with the wine that these deposits contain … what will it be?

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What happens inside a barrel?

In a relaxed and calm way, wine is changing its organoleptic properties: that is, its flavour and aromas. Inside the barrel, the wine will absorb the aromas coming from the wood: the toasted, the notes of smoked, the tones of the cocoa or the vanilla.

The type of wood in the barrel is essential for the construction of great wines and the oenologist will have much to say depending on the profile of wine sought. The type of oak, the grain size and the toasting will have a considerable influence on the aromatic range, the sweetness and the contribution of tannins.

What life can a barrel have?

It will depend on what we want to use it for. The barrels generally allow to perform their function in optimal conditions for approximately 8 years. The newer the barrel, the more aromas and flavours it will bring to the wine.

For other tasks such as separation of sediments and to make racking can be suitable for about 40 years. When it comes to making high quality wines the renovation of a whole barrel park can be produced approximately every 10 years, at a rate of 10% per year. Or even in narrower time bands depending on the oenologist’s guidelines.

Sometimes it is sought that the contribution of the wood in the wine is subtle, and therefore barrels are used that previously have contained other wines.

Do the barrels provide more?

You are right! Actually, the barrel does not only serve to age the wine. It also has other purposes such as allowing the wine to be cleaned, separating possible sediments. It contributes pleasant and healthy substances (such as tannins or resveratrol), and finally allows the micro-oxygenation that fixes the anthocyanins of the wine with the tannins and stabilises the colour.

And the house barrel?

In some town houses you can still find ancient boots. Often these deposits keep great treasures inside. These barrels are religiously renewing the wine every year in the months of October and November.

In many houses there is also the so-called “bóta del racó”, a most revered container located in a place full of good energies and intentions that fills the house with virtue.

As we said the life of the barrel will ultimately depend on the utility, we want to get out of it. If we want to bring new tastes and aromas to a wine we will opt for new wood. If on the contrary it is only to stabilise it, fixing the colour and aromas of the wine, the life of the barrel will be extended. In this last case the barrel years will influence only if it has been well used and conserved.

The barrel, the complexity and the magic of good wine

The barrel is that magical container that contributes in a decisive way to fix the characteristics of a good wine.

Entering a barrel room is like entering a temple or a mausoleum, it impresses. The smell, the humidity, the silence impregnates you. They make you a participant, an accomplice of the work that is being done there and a powerful sense of respect floods you. Rows of barrels, perfectly arranged and placed, keep secrets that are uncovered in a few months for the enjoyment of wine lovers.

But before entering to be part of this responsible process of aging a wine, we must talk about the secrets and great skills that surround the artisan process of making a barrel, as well as the deep knowledge of the master winemaker at the time of perform the coupage. If you want to know more about this topic, we tell you everything in the next post.

The secret of its origin

As we all know, wine has been fully linked to the Mediterranean world, its history, its culture, its parties …

Egyptians, Greeks, Phoenicians, Iberians, Romans, great peoples and civilizations fell intoxicated by wine. They made wine and worried about keeping it and transporting it. Thus, the barrel, after a long process, was consolidated as one of the most suitable containers for it.

However, this container was not invented primarily for this purpose, but for the transport of liquid or solid products. Due to its hardness and its shape, the barrels displaced the amphoras, the vessels, the skins of the animals and any other container to preserve and transport this drink.

From the time of the first Roman emperor: August, until relatively few years ago, the wine trade was done in barrels acquiring such importance that the volume of them was standardized for a better surface-volume ratio. Thus, were born the jerezanas boots and the 500 litre Porto pipes and the 225 litre Bordeaux barrel which was adopted almost officially in 1836.

The secrets of its manufacture

The quality of the wood in the barrels plays a decisive role in the aging of a red wine. The manufacture of barrels implies, first of all, having a good raw material: wood.

Formerly the barrels were made of the most abundant wood in the place of production: chestnut, pine, acacia, cherry, ash, beech … but nowadays, they are manufactured almost exclusively from oak. This was due to its abundance, its hardness and the particular characteristics of its components. These properties of oak wood made it consolidate as the most suitable for the conservation and aging of wine.

• Of the more than 150 known oak species, only three are used to make the barrels:
• Quercus petraea or “French oak” of little porous and fine wood.
• Quercus robur or “oak limousin” of very tannic and porous wood (not usually used much for wine).
• Quercus alba or “American oak” of compact wood.

The wood that is used to make barrels is that which comes only from the trunk of the oaks of more than 35 cm in diameter without defects or branches and with the right vein. Reaching this measure means that the trees have to be at least 120 years old, so their plantation and logging have been regulated for centuries.

The stave is the constructive unit of the barrel. Each one usually has between 25 and 32 staves with a thickness that varies between 22 and 30 mm, being greater in its half than in the ends due to the central diameter.

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They say that wine, the older, the better. But it is only one sentence, it is not a general rule, since there are wines that can be aged for a long time, and others that would not stand more than two years. Why does this happen and how do we know what wines we can keep?

Also, against departure, we can hear it said that it is not true that all wines improve over time. And here it was time to expand a little more on this subject, which we have already discussed in previous notes.

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Pay attention to the following: all wines (all) improve with time in the bottle

The problem is knowing how long we are talking. Freshly bottled wine is hard, tense, if you want the expression.

You need a rest in stowage, to amalgamate its compounds and rest. It’s like the food did you see?, the next day is richer, because its ingredients are coupled. While it is true that tasting wines directly from the barrels is an exciting experience, the importance of bottle storage is superlative. Then, for certain wines, that time lapse will be a few months, and for others it will be decades.

In the case of white wines without passing through barrels, and as a general rule, we could predict a bottle aging period of between 1 and 3 years. If it were a white wine that went through barrels, that period would be extended, because the tannins provided by the wood (in harmony with the rest of the liquid compounds), have a protective, antioxidant, and polymerising effect with the molecules responsible for the colour.

In this last example, we would say that the wine would be optimal between 3 and 8 years after the harvest. Always, remember, it is in the case of wines called “quiet” (neither sweet, nor liquor, nor sparkling), and by generic rule. Of course, there are cases of white wines with barrels that are great after 10 years. But it is not the norm. On the other hand, the example of rosé wines is similar to that of whites.

That is because the tannin load is similar to that of a white barrel, since the maceration period was short (4 to 18 hours), just to get that pink colour. It will depend on the vinification technique, the maceration period, and many others. So then, we would have a wine to consume perfectly between 1 to 6 years of its harvest date. Even many white wines with casks have more structure than certain rosés.

Reaching the range of reds, the fan expands. Here the options unfold everywhere. The different types of grapes come into play, the ripening moments in the harvest, the yields, the climate, the irrigation, the winemaking, and so on. Without talking yet about whether or not the wine went through barrels, we already have a world of possibilities. Given this, we must bear in mind that the producer is the main interested in having his product consumed within the ideal margins, therefore the counter-labels are a great help, since many places the period they recommend there.

Consumption limits

Here the consumption limits can vary from 1 to 10 years after the harvest. This is always determined by the spine of red wine, formed by alcohol, acidity and polyphenols. When these ingredients are in harmony and amounts consistent, the life expectancy of the product grows markedly. And not only that, but over time they form the famous “bouquet” of wine.

And finally, we must consider barrel aging. Depending on the type of barrel, its wood, its years of use and, of course, the time that the wine remains in it, the matter becomes even more complex. The winemaker manages these variables to obtain a harmonious result, where the years of consumption range from 2 to undetermined. You cannot put here, even in generic form, a deadline.

Although this note is intended to summarize the variables that frame how long a bottled wine can be aged, considering a number of factors, we cannot fail to recommend reading the following four articles in this column, as a way to deepen each topic in particular:

• Once the wine is bottled, how does it age?
• Guide to age the wine bottles in our house
• French oak and American oak barrels: how are they different?
• Aging treasures: Are all wines suitable for storage?

How long does a barrel last?

Oak wood barrels are the containers where wines are traditionally stored, but what do we know about oak and barrels?

Oak wood has always been used as a material for containers in direct contact with the wine as it is a material of great resistance, on the one hand, and by not altering the wine giving it a pleasant taste, on the other.

The most used containers made with oak are known as barrels, originating in the production of wines from Bordeaux (France), with a capacity for 220 litres of wine.

In practice there are two usual types of oak wood with which the barrels are made: American and French.

The Spanish oak, increasingly used, is usually only useful for those grown in Northern Spain (from Galicia to Navarra). Another alternative is the Romanian oak, little used.

The American oak is somewhat harder and its wood more productive (about 10 barrels of 220 litres per cubic meter of wood), while the French is a little softer which offers a somewhat lower productivity (6 barrels per 1 M3).

As for the taste contribution to wine, American oak offers a resin aroma and flavour, while French brings a softer aroma and flavour, with vanilla memories.

The way wood has been treated also has an impact on wine. Thus, the dried and cured oak brings less flavour but stabilizes and gives the wine a good colour. On the other hand, the oak cured with stove yields more aromatic substances to the wine, but does not stabilize the colour correctly.

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Sometimes trees reach a point where they must be cut, especially if they are not drought-resistant trees. It can be a painful decision, but sometimes the trees that are very close to the houses, are very sick, have an incurable infestation or grow very tall and very close to the power lines. If any of these things happen, it is better to do the right thing and get rid of this tree. Despite having spent hours and hours making the tree is as it is now, it is almost dishonourable to let it suffer in unfavourable conditions.

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Techniques to remove trees

Once you have made the choice to remove the tree, you need to plan. We can start by counting the number of windows that we have seen broken and the cars that we have seen crushed by bad planning at the time of removing trees. Decide which way you want it to fall, and measure the way you should cut it so that it cannot hurt anything else. Once you have had the planned fall direction, you should go to the top of the tree and tie two long ropes in the part. Then anchor them to the opposite side of the one that wants the tree to fall. This will allow you to adjust the direction of the tree once it has gone down, just in case it starts to lean towards some place.

Now that you have taken all the necessary precautions, you can start cutting down. If you plan to use a manually operated saw or an axe, please think about how crazy it is. Cutting a tree by hand can take a lot of time, and you may never have the precision you could have with an electric saw. If you do not have one, do not consider doing it. Ask your neighbours and see if anyone has one that they can borrow. If that does not work, buy or rent one from your local home improvement store.

Before you begin cutting your tree, you should wear eye and face protection in the event that a splinter can fly towards you. We have a friend who went blind in the right eye while cutting a tree, so we hope none of my readers make the same mistake as him. When operating a power tool, always make sure you are using all the protection necessary for the exposed parts of your body.

When making the cut, you should not make a straight line. It is always better to cut in a “V” shape, because if you cut in a straight line, the tree can roll from one side to the other. If you cut in the form of a “V”, you can control the direction of fall. Occasionally the human error at the time of cutting can cause it to fall a little further than calculated, so ask for the help of some strong friends to be able to linearise the path of the fall. The whole process should not take more than an hour.

Getting rid of the trunk that is left on the ground can be a bit more difficult. It has several options; You can rent a log splitter that completely destroyed the entire visible section. Or you can spend countless hours digging and taking it out. The latter is better, but it takes a long time. If you have children to help you, this should not be a problem, as they like to dig and enjoy outdoor activities. This is the method that we know, and with which we managed to get the whole trunk in a week. Keep in mind that my trunk was about 30 centimetres in diameter, and digging probably will not work for much longer trunks.

5 steps to remove a tree from the root

No one can deny that trees are incredible pieces of art that nature gives us to appreciate and enjoy its presence. Not to mention having the chance that one of these copies embellishes our garden. However, sometimes it can happen that a tree gets sick due to an infestation not treated in time or that its height gets out of hand and can interfere with the electrical wiring. In those cases, badly that weighs us, it is necessary to get rid of it to avoid bigger problems in the future.

To not leave you alone in such a feat, wants to accompany you in this process by giving you the precise advice so that everything will come out successfully.

Step 1: Have everything calculated

The first thing that needs to be done first of all and after having decided that the tree will be removed, is to plan several considerations. You must be sure which direction you think it is convenient to fall to avoid crushing other objects due to a miscalculation.

That area of ​​fall must be free of traffic of vehicles, people or some type of construction. In addition, it is necessary to check the terrain of that area so that its surface does not present unevenness that can cause accidents.

Step 2: The natural inclination

As you can imagine, removing a tree is a task that cannot be done without appealing to a criterion of previous organisation or without adequate tools. Therefore, in addition to being aware of the previous step, it is necessary to take into account other variables.

Generally, trees have a tendency to lean toward the wind or in search of as much light as possible. The idea is that you clear that path so there are no obstacles.

Step 3: Cut in v

The next procedure that is very important in this process, is to go up to the tip of the tree and tie two long ropes that should be anchored on the opposite side of the fall to allow you to manage the direction correctly.

Then, you must make an electric saw because it is time to make a V-shaped cut that will help weaken the strength of the tree. Professionals call it undermined and must have a dimension proportional to a quarter of the total size of the piece.

Step 4: The final cut

Then, it is necessary to make another cut, but this time it is back and will help to release the pressure of the previous cut. Be careful not to coincide the two cuts because you will cause the tree to fall to the opposite direction of which you have planned.

Once the tree begins to fall you must move quickly from the road to avoid accidents or injuries. Also, you must alert others to your procedure on time.

Step 5: The trunk and roots

Each time we are closer to the end of this masterful task. When the tree has fallen, we should start to remove all the branches.

You should check how to get the trunk of the tree from its roots: there are different possibilities to carry out this procedure. Light a fire and let the trunk in the middle so that it is consumed with the help of a chemical.

The second option is to hire a company that is dedicated to drill the earth and extract the roots completely.

Perth Tree Service is a recognised business that provides specialised mulching services in Perth, we offer second to none services for commercial and residential spaces but we also focus in the urban built environment or the premises used by the agricultural sector. Call us now.

The time of aging in wood in the wines and the quality of the wood in the barrels determines many things. Both factors play a fundamental role in the aging of a wine. It is likely that on some occasion you have read “Aging in French oak barrels for 15 months” on a tasting sheet. In some cases, we will find that a wine has been aged in barrels of different origins, but what is the difference between French and American oak? and, why oak wood?

Throughout history have been different types of wood used in the manufacture of barrels. Thus, oak, chestnut, spruce, cherry, beech, ash, etc., have been used in addition to oak.

However, the particular characteristics that occur in the oak, of adequate transfer of tannic components and characteristic aromas with the exact supply of oxygen through its pores, has made oak wood the right material for the manufacture of barrels. Although not all oak is suitable for aging wine.

There are many areas dedicated to the cultivation of oak throughout the world, but the most popular come from France or the United States, which due to its special climatology and the characteristics of its soils allow an optimal development of different species of oaks offering a unique quality of its wood.

The ideal is that the oaks destined to the manufacture of barrels grow in cold climates, so that they have the opportunity to mature slowly. Most of the French oaks destined to the production of barrels comes from one of the five main forests located – mainly – in the center of France: Allier, Limousin, Nevers, Tronçais and Vosge.

The case of American barrels is different, since there is usually no emphasis on specifying the name of the forest, as is the case with French barrels. This is because American oak barrels are grown in 18 different states, especially in Missouri, Ohio, Wisconsin. It is estimated that the 5.2 billion white oaks in the US they cover more than 608,000 square km.

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Sizes and types of barrels

Once we have understood why it is so important that the wood comes from the oak and its geographical origin we will explain what a barrel is. A barrel, tub or barrel is a wooden vessel used for the aging of wine which have very important functions for this aging, although at first it was not invented for this purpose, but to transport liquid or solid products.

The passage of wine in barrels adds new layers to your personality. The important thing is to know that a greater contact of the wine with the surface of the barrel will be the smoked notes / wood that will be obtained in the wine, especially if it is new or second-use barrels.

The most used barrel in many parts of the world is called bordelesa, with a capacity of 225 litres of wine. But there are other types of barrels, like Burgundy. There is also the Sherry of 500 litres, the “tonneau” (tonneaux) used in Italy and France, with a capacity of 900 litres, as well as the “botti grandi” (foudre), which have a capacity between 2,000 and 6,000 litres. What is pursued in this last group is the maturation and stabilization of the wine, not the aromatic contributions that the wood itself can give, since the volume of the container is very broad.

Bordeaux barrels: we find them in capacities of 190 litres (50 kg), 225 litres (50 to 58 kg), 250 litres (52 kg), 300 litres (60 kg), 400 litres (80 kg), 500 litres (95 kg) ) and 650 litres (105 kg).

3 curiosities about oak and barrels

Climate, soil, grapes and … wood! Magic word in wine. Oak – French or American – that interacts in the texture, in the aroma and flavour of the wine after passing through the barrel …

1. Greeks and Romans kept and transported the wine in amphoras until they conquered Gaul and discovered that Asterix and Obelix used wooden barrels.

Or what is the same: the love story between wine and wood began linked to the way of transporting the first. Traditionally clay amphorae were the way to store and transport wine until, in full expansion of the Roman Empire, the Romans discovered that the Gauls, instead of amphoras, used wooden barrels to store their beer. Less risk of breaking, easier to transport to be able to make them roll, all were advantages. For this reason, the Romans began to store wine in wooden barrels.

2. Why oak and not pine, for example?

History is long and over the centuries has been tested with other types of wood, including pine. Although all woods breathe and let in a little air, the pore of the oak wood allows a very slow interaction of the wine with the oxygen of the environment, acting as a catalyst in the chemical changes that take place inside the barrel. But the greatest contribution of oak to wine is the aroma and flavor: toasted, drier or fresher fruit, sweet spices such as vanilla … So is the oak itself that is perceived in the tasting, that in some areas of the world they even submerge oak wood chips in the wine to give it the character that wood gives it without having to put it in barrels – this practice is forbidden in Europe.

3. It is not the same fermented in barrel as aged in barrel

“Fermented in barrel” means that the must was poured directly into the barrel and that, inside it, it became wine. “Aged in barrel”, on the other hand, refers to the wine that has been fermented in other types of vats and later it is moved to barrels so that it ages in the latter. This is what is usually done with red wines, since for its fermentation the grape skins are not eliminated, a very sticky mixture to be in contact with the wood. Finally, and although it seems incredible, a wine fermented in barrels has less oak memories than other just aged.

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