There are several techniques and footwear manufacturing process that master footwear craftsmen use when manufacturing their shoes, boots and other types of footwear. It is worth mentioning that here at Happy Feet Pedorthics we will help you feel comfortable wearing the right type of shoes according to the activities you do.
Manufacturing process of handmade footwear.
In general, independently of the master craftsman, when custom footwear manufacturing is carried out, in order to obtain optimal results and satisfy the client’s expectations, it is necessary to take the relevant foot and calf measurements.
It is very important to know the anatomy of the foot to be able to meet the measurements correctly. In our course of design, adjustment and patronage you will learn in one of the modules everything you have to know about it.
Measuring the feet
As each foot is different it is necessary to take the concrete measurements of each foot. To measure the foot will be used a sewing tape measure, a white paper and a pencil or pen. The first step of the measurement will be to place the client’s feet on a blank piece of paper in order to draw the contour with the pencil or pen. To draw the outline, it is necessary that the person is standing so that the pressure exerted by the weight on the foot is correct. When drawing the outline, we must put the pencil or pen vertically trying to maintain a 90 degree angle. Then we went to use the tape measure. In a first measurement we will do it at the height of the instep completely surrounding the foot with the tape measure. In the case of a shoe, with these measures would be sufficient. In the case of the manufacture of a booty it would also be necessary to measure with our ankle measuring tape, and in the case of a high boot, we would also have to add the measurement of the calf.
Manufacture of the last of each foot
Once the measurements are made, these will be reflected in the manufacture of the last of each foot. A last is only a mould that will help us to shape the material that will be used in the manufacture of footwear.
These lasts will be saved by the master craftsman in case in the future the customer will request other shoes to measure, so that it is not necessary to require the physical presence of the client again. Some artisans, especially those who work online, can explain to the client how they should take the measurements and then receive the template made on paper along with the measures taken by the client.
Although the measurements do not involve complexity, to avoid any problem is preferable provided that the measurements are taken in the workshop of the craftsman.
Materials for the manufacture of footwear crafts
Once the lasts of our shoes are manufactured, the next step is to choose the materials that will be used for their manufacture. In general, different high-quality natural leathers are used, and although the client will be able to choose the material, he will always have to count on the advice of the craftsman, who will be able to guide him to choose the best material according to the needs of the same and the type of footwear in the that is interested
Shoe design process
Once we take into account the chosen material, the design process is carried out, in which a sketch will be created with the final appearance that the footwear will have, including embellishments, engravings, etc. This process will be in which the opinion and the indications of the client will be more important, in order to obtain the expected result by the same. In the past, freehand designs were created on paper, currently computer programs are used and in some cases 3D modelling so that the client can see with full accuracy what the result will be before starting the manufacturing process.
Once we have the acceptance of the client, the manufacturing process of handmade footwear begins. This is where there is a diversity of techniques and procedures and each craftsman follows what he considers most appropriate or those in which he is specialized.
From the final design accepted by the client, the cutting patterns will be created, to carry out the cutting of the material (cutting and lining skins). This process is carried out through various techniques, regardless of the technique the result of the cut should be optimal to avoid problems with subsequent assembly.
Once we have the pieces, the ornamentation process is carried out, where the engravings, fillings and drawings that will adorn the shoes will be made.
Once we have ready the different parts of the shoe, the boot or the type of footwear that we are manufacturing, we will proceed to the assembly process. This is one of the most important parts and to a large extent the final quality of the footwear will depend on this process. There are several assembly techniques, in many cases, the assembly process is carried out by means of a sewing technique called “Goodyear”, also known as “double stitching” technique. It is one of the techniques that offers higher quality results. There are other techniques of sewing or fixing soles by tails and nails, which although of worse quality than the Goodyear system, also offer good results. One of the main advantages of the double sewing technique is the durability of this type of footwear, which with a little care can last us a lifetime.
The last step of this process of manufacturing of footwear is the placement of the sole, in the same way there are a variety of techniques for placement and fixation with the rest of the footwear. In this case the Goodyear technique is also valid for its attachment to the rest of the footwear. The sole can be made of different materials, can be block or wooden skate, can be treated leather, rubber or other less common types.
Once the assembly is finished, our handmade shoe manufacturing process will be finished, we will only have to proceed with the packaging and the shipment to the client.
As you can see, this process of making handmade footwear is laborious, manual, and requires a lot of experience when it comes to assembling. From Reinventing the Footwear we are aware that this type of trades have been, are, and will be an angular piece in fashion, and for that reason we want to train students of our courses so that this trade, that of shoemaker, continues for many years to be a creative and above all grateful to see our shoes or designs at the feet of a client.
Make sure you are wearing the right type of shoes for your foot type with Happy Feet Pedorthics.